2 Beers from Sagrada Familia |
A bit of gazing out the window along this
coast of Spain, a good sandwich, a very cold beer from the cafeteria car, and a
short nap later we arrived at Barcelona Sants
Station, a charmless, utilitarian construction which looks more like a modern,
soulless airport than the grand railroad stations of the past (there’s a
metaphor or lesson or something in there about trains and planes). Of course Sants is integrated into the city’s wonderful
metro system and for 9.90€ I bought a card in a machine good for 10 rides. We found our train to take us to the Liceu stop in the heart of Las Ramblas. I know Barcelona fairly
well but getting around is extremely easy and intuitive for even the first-time
visitor. The metro is beautiful and there are trains every couple of minutes.
We had excellent luck with buses and trains and had to run a bit to catch many of
them with the longest wait being less than four minutes. The metro cars are
usually crowded and at this time of year there is nothing but tourists. After a
few short minutes we surfaced directly on Las
Ramblas into a tidal wave of people.
If you’ve never been to Barcelona and have
never heard of Las Ramblas it is one
of the main tourist thoroughfares in the city. It’s a gorgeous boulevard lined
with plane trees (kind of like a sycamore) that meanders down to the port area
at the Plaza de Colón where a towering
Christopher Columbus points towards the new world. The street is packed with
cafés and shops and because of the huge crowds it looks something like a rugby
scrum from sunrise until the early hours of the morning. The Liceu metro stop was only about 50
meters from our hotel and it also serves Barcelona’s Boqueria market.
Àngel Guimerà, Top Chrysler-Plymouth Salesman |
Leo Messi wasn’t in her vocabulary upon
arriving in Barcelona but I quickly filled her in on this cultural icon in
Barcelona and all over the world. The FC Barcelona #10 Messi jersey can
probably be seen in every village in Africa, South America, and the Far
East. Not knowing who he is would be
like asking about Mohammed in a Muslim countries or John Wayne in America. I
wouldn’t venture to compare the men but Messi sells more T-shirts.
The essence of our stay was walks around
the city punctuated by stops in cafés, each one more beautiful and quaint than
the last, with just the right view. We had uncanny luck finding just the right
thing to eat at just the right time of day in just the right spot…or maybe we
were just very easy to please because everything else in our lives was so
perfect? When you’re with someone you are crazy about you tend to see
absolutely everything in a more favorable light and even the most miserable of souls
must find it difficult to bitch about Barcelona in the summer.
We had too many café pit stops to list them
all but a few of the standouts would be the Plaza
de la Virreina in the super-charming Gracia
district where I had stayed on a previous visit. It’s not a spectacular square as far as
Barcelona goes but to me it represents the essence of what makes up a great
neighborhood. It offers a few shaded benches, a statue, a fountain, a place for
the kids to kick a ball or learn to ride a bike, and a few cafés between home
and everything else in your life. From
here we moved on to a cold beer and a slice of tortilla de patatas (I created a fan of this iconic Spanish dish)
in front of Sagrada Familia on Avinguda de Gaudi. I think that we were
both more interested in the quiet, comfortable public spaces in the city more
than the iconic landmarks.
We shared everything except coffee and the
individual bottles of beer. We rarely
ordered more than one serving of anything in any one place, preferring instead
to split something small and then move on to the next café. Trying to choose a
favorite out of all of the great places we visited would be difficult but if
pressed I’d have to say the lovely inner courtyard café at the Museo Frederic Marès. I had never been
in there before and we came upon it by accident. I simply wanted to get out of
the sun and poked my head in the doorway and saw the very inviting courtyard
fountain and the café behind it. We sat at a table that looked down from the
fortress wall to the quiet street below and had a view of the rest of the inner
area of the building. I couldn’t imagine
a more perfect place to be with the perfect woman.
How perfect? Perfect enough to let me have
the last anchovy on the great pizza we split at the Brasería Rossini restaurant in the Plaza
Real. This is one of those places that
is full of tourists and in many cases would be dreadful but the food was quite
good and the service was actually charming (possibly the result of the company
I was keeping). We had equally good luck
with a lunch at Les Quinze Nuits on
the other side of the same square (on another trip with my brother we had
horrible luck with another restaurant in the Plaza Real). Once again seated on the terrace we split a
bottle of wine and braised lamb with potatoes. The food and wine were good and
reasonably priced and the location was absolutely impeccable.
If you suffer from agoraphobia you should
definitely steer clear of Barcelona in August as there are legions of tourists.
Everywhere you walked it was as if a sports stadium were emptying out, and at all
times of the day and night. Because of the crowds the city has an incredible energy.
In some of the major thoroughfares the pedestrian traffic rolls along like a
tsunami but it’s easy to find refuge in a quiet shop or the terrace of a café.
It’s fun for me to try to count as many different languages as I can identify
being spoken around me which isn’t too many. Among those which I can positively
identify are English, Spanish, French, Italian, Portuguese, Catalan, Arabic,
Hebrew, German, Chinese, Japanese, and maybe Russian but I could probably be
fooled. There are dozens more being spoken on every corner of this very
cosmopolitan city that are a complete mystery to me.
I couldn't have recounted it better myself. Okay maybe I could have I'm too damn lazy today. My favorite part of the video was the shuffling of your flip flops- a sound that completely brought me back, since it was the underlying soundtrack to a trip where we must have walked 50 miles (I have no idea how many kilometers that is because I live in America).
ReplyDeleteDo you think we could make out in this comments box? There's almost never anyone in here. Unless you're chicken.
ReplyDeleteI'm not chicken. I'm the girl who initiated a kiss in an ancient Spanish cathedral to the chagrin of a disapproving nun. Since when did Catholicism outlaw fun? ...Oh yeah, nevermind.
ReplyDeleteDon't mind me.
ReplyDelete