Gazpacho manchego
is yet another iconic item on the Spanish menu, not that you will see it on
many restaurant menus. As you may have guessed from the name it comes from the
Castilla-La Mancha region of Spain, the center of the country and considered by
many to be the heart and soul of Spanish culture (as opposed to the cultures of
Catalunya, Galicia, Asturias, Valencia, etc.). This dish is the very definition
of hearty peasant food. There are a few basic things you need to know about
gazpacho manchego.
First of
all, it is not to be confused with the chilled tomato soup sharing part of its
name, gazpacho andaluz. This gazpacho is a shepherd’s stew
with loads of meat. When I began to do
some research into gazpacho manchego I found that you can make it with chicken,
rabbit, hare, partridge, quail, pigeon, mushrooms, onions, chicken livers,
gizzards, and just about anything you can think of. So back in the old days it
went down something like this: the
shepherds would blast anything that moved, throw it in a pot with whatever
vegetables they had on hand, and then they added bread to the mixture. The key ingredient
here being the addition of bread or dough.
In the
dozens and dozens of recipes I poured over the only unifying ingredient I found
was the bread that is added at the end of the cooking process. The bread used now in gazpacho manchego (at
least most of them) is called tortas cenceñas. They are kind
of like crackers—unleavened, unsalted, and toasted. Besides the addition of the
tortas cenceñas the other ingredients are whatever you
decide. I found the same thing true concerning the spices. Some ingredients
called for saffron, some cumin, and a lot of other herbs and spices. It seems
to me that there isn’t a universally accepted recipe, unlike paella Valenciana,
for example. I think that personal interpretation and improvisation based on
whatever ingredients are available are essential aspects of making gazpacho
manchego.
For my own
recipe I have distilled at least 20 variations. That is usually how I begin to
prepare any new dish. I search for as many recipes as I can find and take from
each one anything I feel to be worthwhile. I almost never just lift an entire
recipe from someone else. Each thing I cook has my own personal watermark. This
is certainly true of the gazpacho manchego I make in this video.
One problem
with a peasant dish like gazpacho manchego is that the final presentation is a
little less than spectacular which is probably why you don’t see it in many
restaurants. It ain’t yuppie food, that is for sure but if it is a cold winter’s
day and you want to eat like a Spanish shepherd, this might be the dish for
you.
Ok so I guess I do want to eat like a Spanish Shepherd. Yet maybe I am only worthy of eating like a Shepherd assistant. Do either of then use plates?
ReplyDeletealbier
The shepherd assistant gets to lick the pot. No plates with this dish, you eat right from the pan.
ReplyDeleteStumbled upon your blog while looking for a recipe for this dish. I had it at a friend of my family's house for lunch when in Spain and it was wonderful. The hostess made it with snails, which I had never had before. Turned out that I loved them! What a filling dish, though. I had one small bowl and was so unbelievably full--must be the tortas.
ReplyDelete